The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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Gearbox mainshaft question

  • 12 May 2020 5:03 PM
    Message # 8964430

    I’m finally trying to button up my gearbox and I’m stumped when it comes to mainshaft endfloat.  I need to take up .110 to achieve .007 end play on the shaft.  The thinnest thrust washers I have are .065 and if I use one on each end then obviously that’s a squeeze that won’t work!  I’m considering that I may have an older mainshaft in there with the shorter splines?  

    Can anyone give me the measurements of OAL and spline length for both the 101 and pre-101 transmission main shafts?  

    thanks!

  • 12 May 2020 8:26 PM
    Reply # 8964846 on 8964430

    False alarm!  I had assembled the gear box last fall, but only enough to mock up the 101 for fitment of motor/gearbox/sheet metal/wheels....etc. and had already put a .065 washer on the sprocket side.  I forgot that I did that and never even saw it...stuck to the driver gear by a thin film of oil :-)  I’m my own worst enemy sometimes!

    Sorry for the confusion, hope nobody was digging out old parts to measure them for me!


    Last modified: 12 May 2020 8:33 PM | Harry Roberts
  • 13 May 2020 2:41 PM
    Reply # 8966524 on 8964430

    The tight mainshaft end play in the old instruction books is really only for when the old angular contact Timken bearing was used on the clutch side! That bearing required a very tight endplay in order to work properly. A different type contact bearing mounted from the outside, was also used on the older gearboxes and also required that tight setting.

    With a modern deep groove ball bearing at the clutch side, that tight endplay is not critical. Don't ever use a angle contact bearing whatever!, but use a modern common ball bearing (6207 2RS), then the bearings acts as end stops not relying on bearing preload settings. The mainshaft is free flowing. 

    With a modern single row ball bearing on the clutch side, end play must be present and loose is better than too tight. An audible click-klick is good and Ok. It is up to the mechanic but I set it up to max 0.01" or 0,25mm.

    Rather shim thicker at the clutch side if needed, because the shaft protrusion past the sprocket gear should be as large as possible. That is important because the (hardened!!) washer on the outside for the kicker ratchet spring must not touch the large nut or the sprocket. If the washer touch there, return of the kicker pedal is hampered when the engine starts, with an annoying ratchet as a result.

    Sorry for the out-of-focus picture but I am pointing on the ledge on the mainshaft  that must protrude in order to avoid the spring washer to make contact with the nut or sprocket. 

    1 file
    Last modified: 13 May 2020 3:18 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
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