Hello Members,is there info out there as to where to buy brake shoes and linings for the front 101 brake drum?  Or what other model of motorcycle will fit and being used. I've looked thru our forum and Walker Machine, but did not see any info or parts.Thanks again for your time.

Walker machine parts is here: http://walkermachine.com/frontwheelbrakegroup.aspx

From what I can see on the page, Walker doesn't supply readymade brake shoes, but material for relining. Here's a picture on how rivets should look properly done: 

http://www.autoandindustrial.co.uk/index.php?webpage=riveting

And a example of tool for that:

https://www.steinertractor.com/MIS1131-Brake-Riveting-Tool

CWS moto has a lot of brake parts and possibly brake shoes if you ask.

http://cwsmoto.com/products/scout?limitstart=0

I found pictures on the Reno site. He doesn't update price or availability on his site, so you have to mail and ask. 

http://reno.indianmoto.cz/index.php?id_category=24&controller=category&id_lang=1&p=5

-------------A note regarding the many times excellent repro parts available nowadays. New is good in many cases. Just a little wear (rounding off) of the brake cam both (already round) outer edges diminish the brake efficiency substantially, and wear trenches in the shoe surface where the cam wedge against is lessening the force that the cam can and should exert against the shoes, so that is important areas to look into (fill in and ground flat). Brake cam bushing wear in the shield should not be allowed as it makes the cam tilt. Wear in all those areas together with flex in the brake cable makes the brake spongy and travel range at the handlebar lever too short.-------------------------

Some advocate use regular aluminium pop rivets, I strongly advise against that because the rivet material is soft, hollow through, thin and the clamping force is unknown for various quality pop rivets! Add to that a small ball of steel that is remaining in the rivet that needs to be secured or removed.

 http://www.benchmarkworks.com/articles/howto/brake.html

If you want to know more about brake friction materials that should be used for our light weight motorcycles, ask various professionals.

https://custombrakes.co.uk/vintage-and-classic-brakes

https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-for-classic-vehicles-and-race-applications/

Glue bond the material is well known and safe way if done proper. Some friction materials is only suitable for bonding. If I choose that method I would have a professional shop do that in an oven.

http://adhesives.raybestospowertrain.com/

P.s. I agree with Ken, rivet a lining even if it is bonded.

Thanks everybody for fast input,tips, & knowledge. I will check the 741's & Reno as I need both, the brake shoes and linings. Also I will have rivets installed by pro Clutch and Brake shop as a safety net with or without bonding. I'll let you know what I find and use.

I am ready to re-line my brakes with friction material from Randy Walker.  I have a couple of questions I'm hoping you can help with (and thanks to all who have contributed to this thread - it was very informative.

1.  The friction material for my front brakes is longer than what I removed.  The new material will hang-over the surface of the shoe by 3/16" on each end if centered as shown in the photo.  Should I trim the material to be flush with the shoe?

2.  The friction material for my rear brake is shorter than what I removed.  The old material came to within 1/8" of the threaded rod attachment.  The new material is 1" shorter.  You can see in the photo that there is an old scribe mark where the material ends, so is this the correct alignment?

3.  The front material is 4mm thick, the rear is 5mm thick.  How deep should I countersink the rivets?

Thanks for sharing your expertise.

John

Brakes are important and knowledge on how it works is essential for getting best effect and avoid dangerous failures. External brake band and internal shoe brake is working the same, in regard of leading and trailing lining. 

One danger is that if adjusted wrong the brake can pinch and lock the wheel if and when the drum heats up! Be sure to check with a feeler gauge that the band is clearing the drum all around. If not then reshape the band or glue a thin sandpaper around the drum and careful sand just enough.

I surely don't know all but here is some illustrations and pictures to explain better what I am trying to describe.

https://occhiolungo.wordpress.com/2010/05/20/how-to-reline-drum-brakes-and-band-brakes/