The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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101 Rear Hub?

  • 07 May 2016 11:42 AM
    Message # 4008053
    Deleted user

     Hi Guys. Can anyone help. I am starting to put my 101 basket case back together. But I have a problem with the rear hub. Can anyone tell me the correct length of the 101 rear hub/Hollow Shaft? The hub I have is 7" across.
    So when I put the hollow shaft in the hub there is only a small amount of thread to fit the brake plate on and then it won't fit in the frame. It fits in if I don't fit the brake plate on to the hollow shaft.

    Many thanks for any help

    Norm

  • 08 May 2016 3:25 AM
    Reply # 4008428 on 4008053

    Hi Norman,

    If your bike has the band brake on the left side then the hollow shaft thread fits the brake anchor plate nearly all the way through. On the opposite side, there is only just room for the lock nut and on my bike it overhangs by the thread turn or so. I will measure my old shaft, now replaced as it was damaged on the threads and get back to you. Has your hub got ball bearings or Timken taper rollers?

    Mike.

  • 09 May 2016 2:57 AM
    Reply # 4009436 on 4008053

    Hollow axle 8" long and thread length is approx. 3/4".

    Hope this helps.

    Mike.

  • 09 May 2016 8:57 AM
    Reply # 4009806 on 4008053

    There is 2 versions of hollow axle, (not counting 1931 version). One for the ball bearing and one for the timken roller bearing.

    The ball bearing version has the inner races threaded and the brake side race is firmly screwed in between the brake anchor plate and a small rim on the hollow shaft that ends the threaded part. The small rim is only at the brake side end, the other end is plain threaded. When the hollow axle is assembled with the race and screwed in the brake plate, strangely enough it does not reach flush with the brake plate outer end, but a fair bit in.

    The roller bearing version does not have that rim at the end of the threaded part, it has shallow ledges with grinded surfaces at both ends for the inner races. Both inner races slide on those surfaces and the fitting has to be fitting well, just thumb pressure without slop or bind. If you find play there, it is not uncommon and it should be resolved. The hollow axle is screwed all the way in to the brake anchor plate and ends flush or almost flush with the brake plate outer end.

    Last modified: 09 May 2016 9:07 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 09 May 2016 11:57 AM
    Reply # 4010068 on 4008053
    Deleted user

    Hi Mike and Carl-Erik.  Many thanks for your help.

    The shaft I have is 8" long, with 3/4" thread.   The hub has ball bearings fitted at the moment; they were not fitted in the hub when I purchased the box of bits.

    So I'm not sure if I have the wrong hollow shaft for the hub, or the wrong bearings for the hollow shaft.

    I intend to have another look at the hub tomorrow to see if I can work out what hub I actually have, based on Carl-Erik's information.

    Many regards

    Norman

  • 10 May 2016 2:09 AM
    Reply # 4010951 on 4008053

    Hi Norman,

    Is the frame width correct ?  From memory this is around  8  13/16".

    There are two spacers ,one on each end of the hollow shaft and these are fitted on both ball bearing hubs and Timken taper hubs. Short one goes to brake drum side and long to sprocket side.

    Be very carefull with the sprocket end of the hollow shaft as the thread is easily damaged because the shaft is very thin in that area.

    Mike.


  • 10 May 2016 11:31 AM
    Reply # 4011916 on 4008053
    Deleted user

    Hi Mike,  Just checked the frame, All OK.  I have had a look at the Hub.

    There is a groove that I think must be for a retaining ring.  But only on the break hub end.  I this normal.  Or should there be a groove on both ends when Timken bearings are fitted.

     

    Regards

    Norman 

  • 10 May 2016 4:38 PM
    Reply # 4012496 on 4008053

    Hi Norman. The Timken bearing hub has a groove at each end to lock in the felt oil seal  steel cups with a wire ring.

    The earlier ball bearing hub does not have the grooves as far as I know as oil seal arrangement was different.

    Perhaps your hub was produced around the change-over time when they stated to use Timken  taper bearings.

    Mike


  • 10 May 2016 5:07 PM
    Reply # 4012525 on 4008053

    There is differences in the hubs for ball bearings and roller bearings. At a first glimpse the hubs looks (almost) similar and has exactly the same outer dimensions but at inside, the ball bearing outer race has a larger diameter than the Timken bearing and the Timken race seat is machined deeper than the ball bearing race. There is other minor machining differences, mainly for the grease deflector and felt sealing. Of course the hollow axle differs to suit the different bearings.

    Rear hubs with Timken bearings can be distinguished from the outside by that they have humps. The humps is reinforcement bulbs on the inside of the spoke flange, the rear hub can have a hump at one or both flanges. Ball bearing hubs does not have those humps. Front hubs is a bit tricky, both versions has a hump inside the spoke flange, but the hump is wider and more square for the Timken bearing.

    The Timken bearings is easy to replace, you'll find them readily over the counter at some bearing shop, they are plenty strong and long lasting. New bearing balls is easy to find for the ball bearings, it is more difficult to find reproduced races for the hubs, but it possible to adapt ordinary ball bearings with some machining, bushings, a distance tube or a new hollow shaft.

    Last modified: 10 May 2016 5:16 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
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