The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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STARTING TROUBLE

  • 14 Mar 2016 11:51 AM
    Message # 3879915

    I rode my '30 101 around 20 miles, it performed faultlessly, then would not restart.  Still no start after I let it go cold.  It'll fire once on one or two cylinders, but that's all.

    Because of recent work I know the carb is OK.  The Splitdorf S is sparking, but slightly more yellow than I'd like. Clearances are OK.  Throttle, choke, retard have no effect on the starting.

    Mags usually fail when hot, so I'm surprised by the suddenness of the failure, and am struggling to trace the issue. Can anyone point me in the right direction?  I need to bubble test, but would be surprised if I found anything as it went from perfect, easy starter to no start in such a short time.

    Also, I'm not familiar with the S model Splitdorf, what is the purpose of the carbon contact under the cap, and should it be springloaded to touch the rotor?

    Thanks.

  • 15 Mar 2016 12:38 AM
    Reply # 3881114 on 3879915

    If it chuff away with some extra petrol or ether in the cylinders, it is petrol issues. If it doesn't start then, it is ignition. I'd try with replace the condenser and at the same time check which cable has been chewed through and is shorting out. Still nothing, I'd check loose points or cracked isolation? Safety gap screw loose? Or check resistance in the coil windings. Just because there is a spark in the open air, it is not certain it is strong enough to spark with the compression in the cylinders.

  • 16 Mar 2016 3:05 AM
    Reply # 3883882 on 3879915

    Electrical problems are usually immediate while carb /fuel problems can be spasmodic/spluttering etc., unless jet in carb blocks up. Good idea is to have fuel tap with built in gauze filter.

    For spark testing I have a simple device shaped like a sextant, so that the spark gap can be varied when it is inserted between spark plug and the HT lead.

    Not sure if you can still buy these but I will check on line.

    Mike.

  • 16 Mar 2016 11:37 AM
    Reply # 3884658 on 3879915

    Thexton 404 adjustable spark intensity tester. Around $14.00 .

    Same principle as my vintage one, but works on a sliding principle.

    Mike.

  • 28 Mar 2016 7:47 AM
    Reply # 3908984 on 3879915
    Deleted user

    Spark disappearing as bike warms up, then restarting after it cools down is usually a faulty condensor in the magneto. Old brit days it was not uncommon to "water the mag" to cool it down and get you home. I have done this on occasion.

    Had a similar problem on a KLR and a 79 Triumph, both with electronic ignition, the pick up units break down under heat when old, and cut out when hot, often times will work until eather gets up to hot sunny August days. Tested ith a heat gun and a resistance tester, as the temp rises, al of a sudden the resisitance will rise and then go to infinity.


    Tim

  • 13 Apr 2016 6:01 AM
    Reply # 3950613 on 3879915

    Thanks for all of the suggestions.

    When checking the mag. I found that the points were making a slight angular contact, so corrected this, and used a homemade spark intensity tester to check it, finding a healthy spark.  On reconnecting the plugs – still no start.  So I changed the plugs, and it barked straight into life.  I had, of course, inspected the plugs, and found no fouling, signs of tracking or damage.  They are Bosch items and had been fitted for just over 100 miles, and are the plug type I have used on many vintage machines with never a problem. I have no explanation for this failure, but the bike is running sweetly once more on NGKs.

     

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