Just clean the bar clamps and fork ends from paint and be sure the handebar is torqued properly, the bar is a really important component for the stability of the fork.

A tip is that, after some use, if you can spot some miscolouring of rust dust at the clamps, the fork is moving and the handlebar at least needs torquing!!  Headlight stalks is made of fairly soft iron and the threads can give quite easily.

The rust can be visible as a thin line of usually red but can also be black. Same kind of rust dust can be seen between the fork spring leafs.

In that case the best thing is to demount the bar to check the wear, headlight stalk threads, and clean up.

There's just a few critical specs, mostly inside the engine you will find for Indian motorcycles, after that it is just go by guidelines. It is mostly in the arms of an experienced mechanic. Tables can be found for example in the

http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque.htm

Hi Bart , Setting up the control cables is important too. You want them as tight as possible. Its easier to thread the outer cable thru the bars if you push  an inner thru from the fork end and use this as a guide for the outer . 

To secure the stop on the bar end for the outer, I put the cable in a vice , place the stop over it and use a pair of side cutters to widen out one turn of coil, then drop the cable up to the stop in the jaws of the vice and flatten the coil against it with a small tap or two. This should give a tight stop, so that you can then pull strongly on the cable from the handlebar end to tighten up the small clips that hold the tension against the bar, and this takes some slop out of the action.

If you are using old , kinked inners, they can be straightend by putting one end in a vice, and pulling tight with a pair of vice grips. Having someone running a piece of wood over the kinked area under tension should straighten them out nicely. 

White grease also seems to work well on the cable and twist grip, I use LOTS of it on the spiral area.