I would recommend new flywheels instead of the original spoked flywheels. Old original is of course usable and fine in many cases but are a gamble to use even the later version solid flywheels have a tendency to crack at the holes.
Old original flywheels needs a thorough inspection and control for cracks and the condition of the tapered shaft holes. If the wheels are a mismatched set it is not certain they ever will line up straight in all cases, and even a matched set for best result would need correcting of the holes. And a possible rebalance, at least a checkup.
George Yarocki is showing the proceedure of honing the holes on a youtube clip by Jeff Alperin, and if you are careful with following that and the recommendations of torque the shafts you should have a fighting chance to avoid flywheels from crack and split.
Still it is safer to use new cast or steel billett flywheels. There is numerous providers today, Greg Hutchinson, S&S, Truett & Osborn, Breed flathead motors, Bob Nichols and others that makes top of the line flywheels for the Scout engine.
The total weight of the wheels can differ slightly between variants and it might differ a bit in the character of the engine response. Heavier wheels is fine for riding in a hilly area where you want a bit torquier feel, and light wheels for twisty roads with a lot of up and downshifting. However the difference could be marginal.
