You may have, or should have, checked this:
When the stack of plates are compressed, there should be some space to allow the pressure plate to back off to disengage the clutch plates from drive. If I remember correctly for the 101 (and same for Chiefs and 741 I think) optimal free space is no more than 3/16 in. and no less than 1/8 in. and is measured between the pressure plate pushing on the pack and the spring plate. You can insert drill bits into this gap to measure it.
To adjust for this: select and install the fiber and steel plates that work out for that space. The association's repair and operation book (which you should have) gives the 101 plate mix for after Aug. 1 1928 and may be of interest to you if you still have the original plates as these may match that Indian specification. New plates may cause a need for adjustments. In one case I had to grind off material from one side of a plate to make a "half" plate to get the stack to work out.
BTW: My first 101 came with what I suspect were its original clutch plates. I replaced them with a stack from KIWI. Didn't make any difference I could feel. The originals were just fine.
The 101 can use all its springs. It was thought that later Chiefs included extra springs for side car use and so those not running side cars removed some.
Over many years I settled on using ATF Type F (Ford) fluid (no friction modifiers meeting JASO MA/MA2 certifications), which has a viscosity equivalent to engine oils of between 20 and 10 wt. I happen to use Trick Shift "Original" 80260 mineral transmission fluid for no performance reason I just like the clear blue color that allos me to see if any dirty engine oil is leaking past the seal into the primary (which it does sometimes on one of my 101's). I have had no clutch issues with Trick Shift. It has popularity among MX bike racers (but for centrifugul shoe clutches). There are mixed guesses online if the original formulation has any frition modifiers. Any conventional ATF Type F would be a safer choice I guess.
