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For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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schebler

  • 05 Sep 2025 7:16 AM
    Message # 13539123

    My Scout 600cc, 1930 model, has a reconditioned engine and the DLX64 carburetor is also in good condition. However, the problem is heavily sooted spark plugs (heat rating NGK 6). The float level is at the height of the rocker arm.

    The question now is: how do I adjust the DLX64 correctly?

    - Standing as in the shop manual (page 8A)

    - Driving and optimizing the setting in steps

    What tips can experienced Scout riders give me?

    Many thanks for your answers.

    Reiner Elsener


  • 06 Sep 2025 7:48 AM
    Reply # 13539502 on 13539123
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Here is what I do :-

    first, check the throttle butterfly closes completely initially when twist grip closed. You want a little flex in the cable when it is shut down to ensure it is pushing a little. 

    When bike is warm,

    Adjust tickover with throttle stop screw to a comfortable rate with the ignition on full advance. 
     adjust the idle screw to the point of fastest tickover. You really need to turn a couple of clicks and listen for a few seconds to let it settle. When about right you should be able to clearly here a slight change/drop in motor speed if you go a couple of clicks in either direction.

    Then set tickover with throttle stop screw back to a nice steady beat, probably around 1200 rpm, not too slow.

    Now go to main jet. Blip the throttleand the motor should rev freely.wind main jet needle in a couple of clicks at a time, letting it settle for a couple of seconds in between twisting the throttle. When the motor doesn,t rev freely, ie stutters, thats too lean, so go back until it doesn,t stutter. Rule of thumb is 4 clicks out from there.

    now try going the other way, until it stutters again as a check, as it will also bog down when way too rich. There may be quite a range between too lean and too rich.

    As a check to see if you have it close, fully retard ignition. The beat of the motor should now slow down to a nice crisp metronomic pulse. Motor will get very hot if run retarded for long.
    Now recheck idle, then recheck main, go for a ride, see how it goes. It may take a while, and if everything is good, you may need a slight adjustment acording to weather etc.A damp misty day will do wonders for the motor, bags of extra torque, you may need to richen slightly. If you generally live and ride at a moderate altitude, and take the bike to the beach, you will need to richen it way up, so get used to checking and adjusting even if it all seems good.

    Handy to record number of clicks on needles so you can always go back there. i often pull over to the side of the road somewhere qiet and concentrate on the beat, repeating above procedure slightly during a ride.It should be possible to obtain a sweet spot within a click or two either way if everything is in good shape.

    readjust cable so it is still giving a slight push/ flex when twist grip closed.

    If you cannot get the bike to idle down, you probably have an air leak somewhere, usually manifold or worn throttle butterfly shaft, and so are having to run too rich to compensate.

    Let me know if this makes sense and works, happy to know what other people do. I know this is not exactly how the manuals recommend to do it. Initial settings often way off what books recommend too, depends how worn everything is. 

    I have a tendency to leave bikes a touch rich, an old friend of mine long since passed, sadly, always used to laugh and slightly lean out my idle whenever we went for a ride, a small fraction giving a crisp clear exhaust note as opposed to a slight farty sound, usually  a slightly better top end performance with standard cams, but often with a loss of low down torque.  Another friend of mine ate thru a piston by leaning out his harley 45 two clicks on a long run to try and beat his record for fuel economy. 


    Last modified: 06 Sep 2025 8:03 AM | Tim Raindle (Administrator)
  • 06 Sep 2025 8:02 AM
    Reply # 13539505 on 13539123
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    if that all works and you still have a sooty plug, maybe try a hotter plug. I tend to use champion d16, which is probably equivalent to an ngk heat range 4.

    I also buy older nos D16 plugs if I see them at swap meets, as for some reason, older plugs seem to function well if cleaned up and reused, but many modern plugs will never perform satisfactorily once they have oiled up and developed a misfire. Maybe all in my head, too. My BMW loves a bosch plug, my guzzi hates them.

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