The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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Old/Original 101 valve Stampings + Timing Choices

  • 09 May 2024 3:05 PM
    Message # 13354617

    Interesting to take the heads off a 93 year old 101 and see the valves stamped “Thompson / Indian / MC.”

    Note the punch marks to maintain specific placements (see accompanying images).

    Oral history tells that this 1931 101 was not heavily used during its life in Sweden by its 5 past successive owners there. And got attention just once in its life, in the 1970’s, with a reported engine rebuild. But could these be the original valves reused or were replacement valves at the time stamped “Indian”?

    What about the pistons stamped “7450?”  

    These pistons do not reach TDC flush with the cylinder wall tops but fall short of that at TDC by 0.12 in. or about 3 mm. I measure this and advance timing using stacks of washers, which normally vary in thickness, building stacks that fill the distance and then I use a micrometer to measure the stacks.

    I opened up to re-time the engine, timing which our local “Indian mechanic” did wrongly. This engine ran great until he worked on it. I have no problems replacing Scout magnetos myself but I was tired of shop work last fall and sent the bike to him to install a rebuilt Bosch DVAR magneto.

    He returned it with advance timing set to piston going past TDC, and full retard ignition occurred when the piston was about an inch down on its way into its power stroke!

    The bike started and idled OK but had no power and had to be fully advanced to move it. He claimed he test rode it and it was “the best riding Indian Scout he ever tried.”

    I asked if he looked at the pistons to determine timing and he replied “no.” I can’t put words in his mouth nor recall exactly what he added but it was something like he timed it from the cams. I don’t know how to do that – I have to see what the pistons are doing.

    And like documenting these valves and piston stampings, its good to look for yourself! I also found quite a carbon buildup to clean off.

    Advancing the magneto drive gear one cog from where the “mechanic” set it I measure the top of the pistons, at full advance, are at .305 in. down from piston TDC at ignition (measured with a point breaking light from The Magneto Guys) -  not quite enough advance. Again, that .305 in. is measured based on piston travel not distance from top of cylinder walls since the pistons reach TDC short of the tops.

    And advanced two cogs the pistons are .495 in. down from piston reaching TDC on full advanced ignition – a bit too much advance.

    I choose to set the timing at the .495 advance. Because the control cable pushes down on the magneto ring to advance timing, I can set the throw of that with some load that limits the remaining throw to avoid so much advance.

    Any comments on this?

    Thanks.


    3 files
    Last modified: 10 May 2024 7:53 AM | Robert Lodge
  • 10 May 2024 3:17 AM
    Reply # 13354875 on 13354617

    Hello Robert , advanced timing is 5/16ths (0.3125) so not too far out , did you time the mag using the round pin and not the woodruff key ? Although your idea with shortening the advance lever is also a way to go and am sure others have done (I did on '22 Chief a smidgeon) . Good luck , Ken

     I meant shortening the travel on the cable ! not the lever !

    Last modified: 11 May 2024 3:18 AM | Ken Lee
  • 10 May 2024 7:47 AM
    Reply # 13354909 on 13354617

    Yes, the mag drive gear is mounted to the shaft with its original Indian Factory added pin (not the Bosch woodruff key).

    I wouldn't shorten the lever on the cam ring. But the lever on my cam ring gives a range greater than TDC-to-optimal advance. I just pre-load the control wire so that it bottoms out at optimal advance when turning the control grip. 

    I also carefully set the points to gap at 0.4mm. A larger gap has a small effect on timing causing a bit of an additional advance of the ignition which can be used when the gear cogs (the teeth) don't quite work out to an optimal advance. But I already have a bit too much advance.  There is quite a difference in timing with each cog. 

    Last modified: 10 May 2024 7:54 AM | Robert Lodge
  • 10 May 2024 8:18 AM
    Reply # 13354921 on 13354617
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Bob, the pistons stop short of the head, so that is correct. If you have original pistons, they will be round, not cam ground, as they cam ground aluminum pistons were not developed until early thirties, the earlier al pistons need around ten thou clerance in the bores, the cam ground t slot ones around 0.0045". 

    If you have the older style parallel colletts and keepers on the valves, as opposed to the later tapered colletts, they are probably original valves. WHat are the valve seats in the cylinder like ???

    The timing should be around 5/16 before top dead center, which, as you have suggested, is actually around 1/32 below the top of the cylinder. 

    A little extra advance is not a disaster with modern higher octane gas, and you can always find a sweet spot by retarding slightly as you ride. On a single you can get advance spot on by testing with the throttle hard open up a short steep hill, and advancing until you get the motor to ping , then backing it off a touch, but I have never managed to get an Indian to ping ( Pink ?) , so you will need to find the sweet spot yourself on the road by feel, rather than rattle, but that is the beauty of a manual advance /retard mechanism. If everything on the bike is set up absolutely spot on, you can vary timing a touch for any riding condition, retarding a touch on steep slow hills for that extra torque to keep the motor spinning and the revs up, having it almost full advance for normal riding, and saving that last move to full full advance for those rare moments of downhill flat out speed , remembering to use your auxiliary oil pump liberally.

  • 10 May 2024 12:30 PM
    Reply # 13355105 on 13354617

    Thanks for the info.

    I have closed up, leaving full advance a bit more than spec. and as you point out its adjustable "from the seat."

    I didn't pull off the cylinders so I don't know the type of piston. The ones in there are aluminum.

    The valves stamped Thompson are probably from the rebuild in the 1970's Thompson Products (Cleveland, Ohio) was a very extensive worldwide provider of high performance valves for aircraft, racing and general automotive. Looks like they made valves for Indian and stamped that way and were installed in the 1970's rebuild. 

    Peeking at the valve seats when valves open the seats looked great but I did not photo-document their condition or style of cuts (should have).

  • 10 May 2024 4:29 PM
    Reply # 13355238 on 13354617

    7450 is missing a dot but means the bore diam. in millimeters, should be 74.50. About 2.93" You most likely have some period aftermarket pistons, could be Swedish NOVA, or Hepolite, those I got catalogs with Indian assortment. NOVA even lists piston pin height in mm. so here you go..straight from the catalog commas dots and all, right or wrong. 

    Scout, Prince 1925-32 600cc with sidecar. Piston pin height 43.65 Total piston height 76.90 Piston pin diameter 15.87

    600cc, Police. 35.00/68.50/19.05 (could be a printing error here, PP height of 45.00 sounds more plausable.)

    350cc with sidecar 1925-30. 44.45/80.10/22.22 (I have no idea what bike that is)

    1265 Ace 1929 (1 oil control ring). 36.51/80.00/17.46

    Super Scout 1928-30. 34.13/68.2/19.05

    Super Scout, Sport, 1936. 38.10/72.2/19.05

    Super Scout 1928-32. 37.30/71.40/19.05

    Chief 1925-30. 44.45/82.50/15.87

    Super Chief 1927-31. 38.89/74.60/19.05


    Last modified: 10 May 2024 5:29 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 11 May 2024 7:20 AM
    Reply # 13355366 on 13354617

    I copied that information and printed a sheet to put in the binder of information and documentation on work for that 101.  The 1970's rebuild would have been done in Sweden. 

    Pictures:

    1. Wiklunds sidecar getting a new tyre.

    2-3. With sidecar off.


    3 files
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