John Lindberg wrote:

I'm about ready to solder the front brake cable to the brass ferrule that sits inside the yoke that's connected to the brake cam operating lever.  I've got the adjuster all the way forward, and I've marked the position where the cable should be.  Any advice before I fire up the torch and start soldering?  Any lessons learned that I can avoid learning the hard way?

Thanks,

John

Make sure to use Acid Core solder  and flare the end of cable into the feral

regards Phil  

Here's a good tutorial.

https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com/2014/02/cables-cable-making.html

I recommend bending double as many strands as possible, tuck and hammer them back in the nipple before final solder, even if the cavity is not a well like in the example above, but only a funnel/chamfer. I had a front brake nipple with a funnel/chamfer pulled off, in spite of spreading the end. A well is safer. Be thorough when doing this, it is important.

Be very very careful if using a open flame torch, the cable strands are thin and fries very rapidly, becomes blue or black and then the cable end and a bit above the nipple is ruined. The cable becomes Very fragile! Better to heat a chunk of copper or suitable material with the torch and use that for a soldering iron, if not a big enough soldering iron or electricity is available. Even a regular hot plate is usable, either directly solder on or adding heat to a solder iron tip-

For a soldering pot if you want that, a suitable small tin lid on a hot plate can be used.

Tim Raindle wrote:

Totally agree on the torch being too hot. 

Also, I like to use these for the bottom connection, no soldering required on that end and you can adjust length a little. Original parts fit the cable better, repro one shown here may need a little hand filing of the grove to avoid crushing  the cable. Ok its a Harley part, but......

https://www.45restoration.com/Products/Lower-Conection-Front-Brake-Cable__45172-28.aspx

Also, Venhill cables sell cable parts and kits. A clutch cable kit has thicker stronger cables. 

https://www.venhillusa.com/products/cable-kits-and-parts.html

If you have a few different old bikes and are tired of buying brake and clutch cables that don't fit, their professional shop kit is well worth the few hundred bucks it costs.

I fully agree  with Tiim   This is by far the best solution  Both my 101s and my short Frame 28  are fitted with these clamps .

Regards Phil

aquasafe solder is much harder than the lead and tin mixture  (no lead in aquasafe) and i always use la-co flux (made in the US) aquasafe is available in Australia, don't know if it's available in the US, i flux the parts to be soldered first, then apply the soldering iron loaded with solder to the job.