The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
"You can't wear out an Indian Scout"
 

Kerosine

  • 08 Jun 2021 4:44 AM
    Message # 10604146

    Down here in the Southern Hemisphere we are drawing into winter and less riding days, or rather colder and wetter ones. As the Northern hemisphere enters into summer riding I would be interested in any thoughts or recommendations from the greater fraternity regarding the use of Kero

     This last summer I’ve been throwing a bit of kero into the fuel tank and I’ve been very very un-professional about it, I’m guessing somewhere about 1/2 cup of kero  to 1/2 gal(imp).

     The results are  anecdotal but the engine certainly ran cooler, quieter and with much more power. Tick over and running seemed much sweeter, top end appreciably …. quicker.

     New Zealand petrol/gas is pretty rubbish available as 91 / 95 or 98 RON seeing what it does to paint work can be heartbreaking. I think it all has varying degrees of ethanol added and while the 101 is certainly not high compression I’ve tried all the grades and there appears little difference to the engine running.

     Our ambient air temperatures during summer are between high 20 to mid 30deg C (upper 60’s to upper 90’s F )  and I run Morris SAE50 in the motor/gearbox.

    So any thoughts or comments really in the hope that there maybe some more scientific approach than my throw a bit in, suck it and see.

  • 09 Jun 2021 3:59 AM
    Reply # 10607426 on 10604146
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Hi Adey. ooh, this could stir up a bit of a debate.

    I think it may be a really good idea, you are the guinea pig. I would love to be trying that, got 4 101s back on the road in the last year for other people, I,ve still only got the rat rod race bike running, hope to have another 101 on the road this fall.

    I know a lot of vintage car guys do that, there is a really good write up on the pros and cons ( lots of pros, not many cons) in one of the pre war MG car club pages, I will see if I can hunt it down.

    I suspect that a lot of the overheating and hi fuel usage we get compared to "back in the day" is down to using a higher octane fuel than the motors were designed for or was available 80 or 90 years ago, with the resultant incomplete combustion of modern fuels causing various side effects, like unburnt fuel combusting in the exhaust port and pipe. Using a basic reverse comparison which may not be appropriate, simplified for me,  to get more top end power and speed out of a motor, you raise the compression ratio, raise the octane and advance the spark. Our old sidevalves run at around 5:1 compression ratio. If you were running , say for example, an OHV JA Prestwich 500cc single with around 7.5:1 ration on 85 octane fuel and you wanted to go WAY quicker, you could raise your compression ratio as hi as maybe 14 or 15 :1, fill it up with methanol ( much higher octane rating), advance the igntion a good bit, and go really quickly. Of course you may be rebuilding you motor after a few hours of running, but hey ho. So, lowering the octane rating by adding a proportion of kerosene ( paraffin in other parts of the world) may well enable you to match the burn characteristics of our low compression motors with the standard spark timing, and hey presto, a cooler running bike that uses less fuel. You could say that effectively we may be running our motors a touch retarded, but it ain't as simple as that.

    Cliff and Roy Arthur in the UK run their Indians ( and a whole hatful of other first world war era bikes ) on petrol with a little diesel in it, largely because they get it free. They do an approximate specific gravity test ,  ( looks about right, lets add a bit more gas, near enough ) and their motors really like it. They do smoke a little on occasion particularly on start up, and may need decarbonising slightly more often than other peoples bikes that run on straight gas ( altho probably not as much as the factory riders manual recommends as appropriate for 1928, for example).

    I had a long discussion with a guy in Australia about ten years back about this, can't rememberr his name but he built Prestwich v-twins. He said you could hop up an overhead valve motor and run modern fuels quite well with no apparent adverse effects on engine life, but the sidevalve JAPs, whilst they could be made to go shockingly quickly, seemed to develop overheating issues and become more fragile, so were better from a useability point of view running fairly stock and keroing down the fuel a little.

    There is a lot of whatiffery in this post, and obviously they are purely my own personal thoughts, and the 101 Association cannot be held responsible for any wrecked motors caused any experimentation that may be undertaken my members as a result of reading my ramblings, but I would love to hear anyones experiences with actual usage. Adey, get a bit more scientific about it, we want facts, figures, numbers and statistics of performance and mileage please, and if you could throw in any temperature test comparisons of various parts of the motor that would be cool as well. If you can work out a good way to measure oil temperature relative to various running conditions that would be handy too, as I was having a discussion on oils with the tech guy at Morris oils a while back, which stalled out as I could not provide him with sufficient data to look into it . He was really interested too, I like a guy who wants to know.

  • 09 Jun 2021 11:22 AM
    Reply # 10608888 on 10604146

    I have 3 comments.  First, I can't remember my source, but I heard that someone did some actual testing with modern fuel vs the closest thing to old fuel that he could find, which was Colman camp stove fuel, which is more or less gasoline with no additives with an octane of about 50.  As I recall, he found that his low compression cycle ran slightly better on Colman fuel, but not enough to justify switching to it.

    My inline 4-cylinder Nimbus (a 1934 design) was designed for flat terrain and a cool climate.  I ran it in the first Cross Country Chase (themotorcyclechase.com) from the Canadian border to Key West Florida.  I was concerned about overheating.  All 4 cylinders are cast in one block, which means that cylinders 2 & 3 are always hotter. What I did was to make the mixture much richer than normal (but no black smoke).  I then changed the spark plugs on cooler cylinders 1 & 4 to the next hotter heat range to stop the fouling. I monitored Cylinder head temp and it ran cool all the way, with a reasonable 45 MPG and all the plugs looked the same.  My point is that any engine will run cooler with a richer mixture.

    I have a 1917 Henderson with a repo frame but a real (restored) engine. It was unknowingly assembled with factory low compression cylinders (one piece attached heads) that give an amazingly low 2.7:1 compression, instead of the normal 4:1. These were intended for use with the lousy fuel available during and after WW1. It started easily, and had lots of low end torque, but shot flames 2 feet out of the exhaust, backfired, and would just reach 60 MPH. The fuel economy was terrible. Luckily, Hendersons use a straight pipe with no muffler! It would have needed much more spark advance, 45-50 degrees to combust the slow burning modern fuel during the power stroke. Mods to the cylinders and taller pistons to attain 4:1 compression will hopefully help.

  • 10 Jun 2021 5:15 AM
    Reply # 10612112 on 10604146

    Blimey Tim you don’t want much, facts figures, oil and temperatures of different parts of the engine, performance and mileage …. now I know you like a laugh but surely you realised the reason for the post was that I was hoping someone else had all that to hand.

      Seriously it was part of an ongoing thought process that I know we have both long been conjuring with in our what if minds. 

    As to the guinea-pig its now getting into winter proper and riding diminishing as daylight time runs in short supply and riding in cold and rain is something I don’t need to do anymore. 

     I guess everything is going to be anecdotal outside of the test track and having a bench mounted motor inside of a controlled environment.  Am interested in others experience and I note your comments as well as Brians. 

     Logically I concur with your thoughts on the evolution of the motors and the fact that old, low compression very simple air-cooled side valve motors are not in the mix nor considered when the geeks these days are playing with fuel which like it or not is full of exotic aromatics to enhance lean burning and highly refined modern IC engines. (remember those lean burn ford engines of the nineties that “melted” and of course the “unleaded" fuel that burnt out our cast iron valves seats and heads on our old British bikes).

    The old fuel of yesteryear was a very different animal from todays so its not just the flame path and burn rate but also the no longer present quantities of things like wax and tar that doubtless would have added to lubrication and cooling within the combustion chamber side of things.

     I my case I am pretty certain that the engine has been running much much cooler this year, and acceleration is markedly sweeter and crisper and there is nothing else changed on the bike at all, still the same plugs, timing and oil. Using advance and retard has definitely more affect on running and top end is markedly better, I’ve had guys on modern bikes quite astounded at how she tramps on this year.

     Previous years I’ve frequently found hot starting to be difficult combined with an almost non existent compression on long runs in hot weather, this year compression has held up over long runs on those same hot days and starting has almost always been first kick. It may well be that the kero is laying down more carbon deposits or mitigating against the “cleaners” in modern fuel.  

    These are all just thoughts and I wondered if any of our membership is either doing or experiencing similar. Combined anecdotal observations can quickly become empirical evidence.

    Next year I will measure the quantities accurately and see if I can at least standardise the mix so have a benchmark to adjust the mixture by, but I see assorts of “what ifs” no two days are the same weather and no two roads are ridden the same. hmmmmm.

  • 11 Jun 2021 1:11 AM
    Reply # 10615816 on 10604146
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Adey, your only option is to just ride the bejesus out of it. I am also shocked that you worry about rain /cold weather in your sub tropical paradise. Would sir like me to help chip in for a decent rain suit ? Besides, we need data in varied atmospheric conditions too. I had a stunning ride one afternoon on my old short frame a few years back. I had been to a Vmcc rally in Kent, and on the way back, I had to wait out several hours of heavy thunderstorms. I rode 120miles home in one of those ethereal mists that can descend in England on wet summer evenings, you could cut the atmosphere with a knife, and the roads were still covered in surface water in a lot of places. The bike ran so well I almost just kept going, it felt like someone had snuck in overnight and fitted a V8 while I wasn't watching. I even had to richen the carb massively, and I took a couple of diversions to try out some silly hills along the South Downs, which the old girl took with aplomb. Mentioned this to Bill Heeling one time,  ( used to do all Fred Warrs old pre war Harleys and Buell race bikes ), and he gave me a long talk on combustion and showed me the water injection kit he had set up on his  Sportster, which he said had the same effect, bags of torque, cooler running, better fuel consumption.  

  • 14 Jun 2021 2:39 AM
    Reply # 10631987 on 10604146
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)
    • Interesting article here from peter cornelius in NZ. Peter gave the club permission to reproduce it in 2014, not sure we ever did. check out his website, it is very good and may not be available for much longer. http://www.triumph.gen.nz/

      Fuel

      Fact 1 - Fuel today is VERY different to what was available when these machines were new. That's why I don't call it 'petrol'. 
      Fact 2 - The fuel is different in different countries. It depends upon where it is sourced and the chemicals which each country adds before it is sold. For example, the additive which evaporates at 30 degrees C and causes so much restarting problems with older cars in Britain, could not be used in New Zealand, for on many days it would simply evaporate as we were filling a tank! Hence, although a higher ambient temperature I have not suffered the evaporation problem with my old MG as I did in England. (With air cooled motor cycle engines I didn't have that problem in England, either, but I'm just trying to point out that the make-up of fuels depend up on where you use your machine.) 
      Fact 3 - We cannot expect the fuel consumption we might read of in period magazines, although a Model R owner has told me recently that he regularly obtains over 100 mpg, but that has not been my experience. 
      Fact 4 - My 1927 Model P and 1928 Model N de Luxe definitely run much smoother with paraffin/kerosene added to the fuel. 
      Fact 5 - I have been using such a mixture for around 18 years in England and New Zealand with no detrimental effect to the engines.

      I use the lowest grade of 'petrol'. I add anything up to 1:8 paraffin/kerosene mix. (That's the old 1 pint to a gallon measurement, and being old fashioned although I have to buy in litres conversion to the old imperial measurements are more meaningful to me.) 
      For a run I usually fill a bike's fuel tank from a container before leaving home. That way I can add the paraffin/kerosene and have a full tank of the mixture from the start. 
      Even with a 1:8 mixture I experience no problems with starting the engine. I have a half-pint can of paraffin/kerosene in the basket on the rear carrier for adding when I refuel on the run. (As I live away from the main centre I generally covered something like 125 miles by the time I return home, and the flat-tank of the Model P won't cover that distance without a top-up.) 
      If I refuel and my paraffin/kerosene can is empty I definitely notice how much 'rougher' the engine sounds. 

      There has recently (late 2008) been in an MG club magazine an excellent article by someone who has conducted some very technical tests on a rolling road in England with his 1949 MG TC car using paraffin/kerosene to 'petrol' mixes as high as 1:5. His more technical findings are worth mentioning and support my 'on the road' non-technical learnings.

      With mixtures of 1:10 and 1:5 the ignition was advanced by 2 degrees. (Not a problem for us as we manually adjust the ignition, anyway.) 
      With a 1:10 mixture there was a reduction of 9.9% in hydrocarbon (HC) emission from the exhaust and a 25.7% reduction in carbon monoxide (CO) emission. 
      With a 1:5 mixture the reduction in hydrocarbon emission was 39.2% and that of carbon monoxide 36.2%. 
      Paraffin/kerosene has a higher calorific value than 'petrol'. Thus, a lower hydrocarbon emission indicates that a greater percentage of the fuel is being burnt. (These exhaust emissions are not good for the environment, or for the annual/6 monthly vehicle inspections!) 
      Carbon monoxide is the result of incomplete combustion and is caused by too rich a mixture or poor mixing of the fuel and air. Thus, the significant reductions indicate better mixing of fule and air, and subsequently better compustion. 
      The power to the driving wheels increased by 1.35% with the 1:10 mixture, and decreased by 1.03% with the 1:5 mix. 
      Although paraffin/kerosene has a higher calorific value than 'petrol' the tests showed that there was a reduction in 'waste heat' of 7%, and this was the same for both 1:5 and 1:10 mixes. The engine was observed to run significantly cooler.

      There have been suggestions that some paraffin/kerosene in the fuel will remain liquid, make its way past the rings and dilute the oil. There was also a suggestion that as there is a percentage of water in paraffin/kerosene this would remain in the engine and cause rusting. 
      Such suggestions are just 'scaremongering' as far as I am concerned, for the heat of the engine would soon evaporate any 'water' and in years of use I have never experienced any effects of 'oil dilution'. 

      As a final note, I understand that in order to mix paraffin and 'petrol' legally in Britain a Concession is required from Customs and Excise. Apparently this is easy with a letter to -

      Mr. John Loughney, 
      Excise, Stamps and Money Businesses, 
      HM Revenue and Customs, 
      3rd Floor West, 
      Ralli Quays, 
      3 Stanley Street, 
      Salford.

      The request is for a "General Licence to mix hydrocarbon oils under Regulation 43 of the Hydrocarbon Oil Regulations 1973 (SI 1973/1311)", giving your name, address, model and dates of production of your vehicle. 
      Although, all said and done, who knows that you have added paraffin to your fuel for a Sunday afternoon jaunt into the countryside.


      14

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