The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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Front Brake Plunger Help

  • 09 Apr 2020 7:27 PM
    Message # 8890672

    Removed my front wheel/brake with no problems.  Trying to remove the front brake plunger so I can remove the fender so I can service the front fork.  Page 21A of the Shop Manual shows an excellent drawing of the plunger by Carl-Erik.  The stud holding the plunger on to the fork is partially threaded, and includes a small wire ring in a groove.  On my Scout, the nut will not release from the stud.  When I turn the nut, the stud does not turn.  I can see the groove in the stud, but there does not appear to be a wire retainer present.  Bottom line is I cannot get the nut off the stud.  Am I missing something here?  Any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    John  

  • 10 Apr 2020 3:17 AM
    Reply # 8891133 on 8890672
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Have you tried getting in that groove with a dental pick, or something similar, John ? Does the nut screw back up the thread if you tighten it ?

  • 10 Apr 2020 11:08 AM
    Reply # 8891794 on 8890672

    Good suggestions, Tim.  I have been all over the groove with a dental pick, degreaser, and a magnifying glass.  I cannot see a wire retainer.  I've also tried to tighten the nut back onto the threads, but the nut just spins in place.  The shaft is not turning with the nut.  I also tried to make a press to force the nut back up the shaft, but all I did was bend some steel - the nut didn't move and the springs didn't compress (see photo).  I'm looking at the nut splitter in my tool box, but that's a last resort.  I'll sleep on it and maybe one of you will have a better idea.

    1 file
  • 10 Apr 2020 2:55 PM
    Reply # 8892194 on 8890672

    The stud is solid, the casting turned down for the stud and nut threads, and those threads of yours are ruined. If you want to save the nut, I would drill out the center and break off the nut. Then replace the outer threads only in the stud, drill and thread and glue a pinbolt in, or just press in a pinbolt in a blank hole and either pin it or hard solder it in position. Restore the nut threads might be possible but the nut material is most probably stretched and unsafe to use. A nut can be bought new or found used. 

    Mind you the plunger cylinder is a very vital part! The 7/16" thin stud for it is always worn from all the vibrations in the front wheel. Not recommend at all to replace the entire stud right from the base, as it is only a thin casting and very difficult to do in an entirely safe way. It might be the best idea to buy a entire new repro front brake plunger cylinder!

    The front fork lug hole is worn oval, always. It should have ample play so the cylinder can't bind, but if necessary it can easily be drilled out and a steel sleeve can be pressed in. Brass would wear quickly and a lot of play makes rattle and noise.

    Another method to restore the lug/stud play would be if I decided the stud safe enough from wear and strain, to press a steel sleeve over the stud and drill the lug for that.


    Last modified: 10 Apr 2020 3:38 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 10 Apr 2020 6:29 PM
    Reply # 8892448 on 8890672

    Well, that was exactly the problem.  The nut and stud had vibrated together so long that all of the threads were destroyed, and the nut was grooved into place.  I split the nut, and the assembly came off without any more problems.  Now on to the front end.  Does anybody have a good source / size for the thin wrench needed to remove the stud from the rocker arm? (photo attached...)

    1 file
  • 12 Apr 2020 11:55 PM
    Reply # 8895443 on 8890672
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Have had good success replacing the threaded part with a nice stud, using a course thread in the solid part, there is enough meat there.

    Rocker tool is handy heads up to Carl-Eriks tool thread. You will have to grind the flats down on a wrench yourself, I suspect. 

    Removal of the pins in the shackle is easiest  with the set up on the bike, and a soft brass drift is ideal, something harder may well distort the end of the pin, and scalp the end of the shackle on the way out. Refitting is best done with a threaded drift screwed into the grease nipple hole, for similar reasons , will dig out a pic this week.

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