The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
"You can't wear out an Indian Scout"
 

1929-31 scout 101 front brake shoes

  • 01 Nov 2019 6:37 PM
    Message # 8087628

    Hello Members,is there info out there as to where to buy brake shoes and linings for the front 101 brake drum?  Or what other model of motorcycle will fit and being used. I've looked thru our forum and Walker Machine, but did not see any info or parts.Thanks again for your time.

  • 02 Nov 2019 3:05 AM
    Reply # 8087939 on 8087628
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    741 shoes are pretty much the same, it's either that or have them relined .

    Used to be able to pick up NOS 741 shoes fairly easily.

    Let us know if you find a good source.

    Tim

  • 02 Nov 2019 5:36 AM
    Reply # 8087998 on 8087628

    Walker machine parts is here: http://walkermachine.com/frontwheelbrakegroup.aspx

    From what I can see on the page, Walker doesn't supply readymade brake shoes, but material for relining. Here's a picture on how rivets should look properly done: 

    http://www.autoandindustrial.co.uk/index.php?webpage=riveting

    And a example of tool for that:

    https://www.steinertractor.com/MIS1131-Brake-Riveting-Tool

    CWS moto has a lot of brake parts and possibly brake shoes if you ask.

    http://cwsmoto.com/products/scout?limitstart=0

    I found pictures on the Reno site. He doesn't update price or availability on his site, so you have to mail and ask. 

    http://reno.indianmoto.cz/index.php?id_category=24&controller=category&id_lang=1&p=5

    -------------A note regarding the many times excellent repro parts available nowadays. New is good in many cases. Just a little wear (rounding off) of the brake cam both (already round) outer edges diminish the brake efficiency substantially, and wear trenches in the shoe surface where the cam wedge against is lessening the force that the cam can and should exert against the shoes, so that is important areas to look into (fill in and ground flat). Brake cam bushing wear in the shield should not be allowed as it makes the cam tilt. Wear in all those areas together with flex in the brake cable makes the brake spongy and travel range at the handlebar lever too short.-------------------------

    Some advocate use regular aluminium pop rivets, I strongly advise against that because the rivet material is soft, hollow through, thin and the clamping force is unknown for various quality pop rivets! Add to that a small ball of steel that is remaining in the rivet that needs to be secured or removed.

     http://www.benchmarkworks.com/articles/howto/brake.html

    If you want to know more about brake friction materials that should be used for our light weight motorcycles, ask various professionals.

    https://custombrakes.co.uk/vintage-and-classic-brakes

    https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-for-classic-vehicles-and-race-applications/

    Glue bond the material is well known and safe way if done proper. Some friction materials is only suitable for bonding. If I choose that method I would have a professional shop do that in an oven.

    http://adhesives.raybestospowertrain.com/

    Last modified: 03 Nov 2019 7:25 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 02 Nov 2019 6:09 AM
    Reply # 8088002 on 8087628

    I advise always to use rivets even though professionally bonded !! I rode 230 miles home with just rear brake on my KJ after professionally bonded shoes came off front brake . I know others who's bonded shoes have come off so even IF I have them bonded I recommend riveting as well , even if just on the trailing part of the shoe . belt and braces job !!! Ken

  • 02 Nov 2019 2:22 PM
    Reply # 8088381 on 8087628

    Thanks everybody for fast input,tips, & knowledge. I will check the 741's & Reno as I need both, the brake shoes and linings. Also I will have rivets installed by pro Clutch and Brake shop as a safety net with or without bonding. I'll let you know what I find and use.

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