The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
"You can't wear out an Indian Scout"

Primary Indent for Left Rear Brake Bellcrank Bolt

  • 27 Nov 2017 6:27 PM
    Message # 5603475

    I'm still finding things to learn about on this 54 in. stroked 1928 101 I am a new owner of.

    I've been running it and its been fine.

    But today I gave it a good hard and long run - a "shakedown."

    On my return to the shop I noticed fuel was dripping out from the solder around the petcock. Got the fire extinguisher, aluminum pans I keep handy, and did a tank drain.That tank is "toast."

    Fortunately, always expecting trouble, I had purchased a while ago and have at hand in the back seat of my car "just in case" a new tank from Christian DuPont in Belgium. But it needs painting and decals (long process!)

    Also, new problem same time was clean ("green") oil dripping and clearly had been slung all over the rear. "Clean and green" means primary and transmission.

    I am not sure of the source. Still snooping around with a flashlight and a rag.

    But I noticed that the left side cross shaft bell crank rear brake bolt head fits in a recess in the primary and seems to be hitting the aluminum in the recess.

    Is that normal?  Rear brake and control rods seem adjusted OK.


  • 28 Nov 2017 2:31 AM
    Reply # 5603956 on 5603475

    I had same problem with the brake part rubbing on the case and I cured it by fitting a small square of canvas/rubber between gearbox rear mounting and frame boss. I believe there was a spacer originally in that position. (Carl will know for sure !!)


  • 28 Nov 2017 9:16 AM
    Reply # 5604290 on 5603475
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Yup, thats tight right there. If any work has been done to the rear tranny mount , everything may sit a little lower. I occasionally use a small shim between the motor mount and the frame is it needs lifting to clear a little. 

    Also depends on the correct screw being used in the bell crank too. 

  • 30 Nov 2017 6:13 AM
    Reply # 5607247 on 5603475

    A stroker is always marginal on the crankcase ventilation so probably the cork washer at the crankshaft drive gear can't keep up and pressure is building up in the primary/transmission. I would recommend discard the disk and use a PCV valve on the and change the cork ring regularly. A telltale of rised transm.pressure is oil leaking from the tiny ventilation hole in the shifter cap on the transm.tower. And that hole must be open.

    Fresh oil is many times translucent and spot the source of a tiny leak is very hard. Threads are in fact not tight and oil leaks can be found going right through nut and stud threads, and I had to resort to tie strips of clean white paper strips around oil lines, valve spring covers, shifter tower, and various studs and nuts before going on test rides, in order to find leaks. I use locktite on ALL threads, and ALWAYS, except head bolts and cylinder exhaust nuts. And sometimes even that isn't enough but have to use fiber washers under certain nuts in order to avoid leaks. The long stud at the clutch cover lowest point is particular problematic and one of them where I use a fiber washer.

    The talk about rised pressure in the primary/transmission promts me to make a serious general warning to all with open band rear brake at left. Do not ride without the toolbox mounted at it's proper place on the frame, because a tiny oil leak at the clutch shaft worm gear can result in drops of oil flying with the wind right in and between the brake bands. The result of that is sudden and total loss of brake function. I have been there, done that. The toolbox position shield from those oil drops hitting the brake. 

    Don't use the felt washer behind the knurled nut at the clutch worm, use a tight fitting, fairly thick O-ring instead. Use soft setting locktite to seal the steel distance oil tight on the shaft. And glue the nut. The added friction from the O-ring won't be a problem, you get used very quickly to the added resistant in the foot clutch.

    An oil leak from the tell-tale hole under the chain sprocket does indicate that the cluster gear axle is loose in the bushing inside the gearbox and is a indication that it needs to be addressed sooner than later. 

    Last modified: 01 Dec 2017 4:53 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 01 Dec 2017 11:29 AM
    Reply # 5609124 on 5603475

    You recommend discarding the disk and using a PCV valve on the vent tube, I know Krankvent offers one but they are $150! are there some cheaper options out there for PCV valves?



  • 01 Dec 2017 6:00 PM
    Reply # 5609667 on 5607247

    Thank you for taking the time to write that informative response. I think you are right as the 101 stationary has not leaked oil. On stopping after that extended run at around 55mph with this stroked 101 there was oil lost and blown all over the rear. Fortunately it did not reach and contaminate the brake band. The tool box was covered with oil though, and as you say, it has another purpose as a guard. So the crankcase reached too high a pressue and pressurized the primary case and also maybe the gearbox. That seems plausible. I’m still new to a 101 and there remains much for me to observe. I don’t have anything more to say other than I now need to study crankcase venting. Thanks again, for the “starter.” 
  • 02 Dec 2017 2:49 AM
    Reply # 5610008 on 5603475

    One-way ventilation valves can be found in many different shapes and construction on all types of cars and engines. Even lawn mower engines. Some are bolted on and some fitted on hoses. Some have rubber or plastic valves, some have spring steel valves. Some of the cheapest of plastic might not endure for long. I found one very suitable on a hose that was plugged in the valve cover from an 70's SAAB/Ford V4. The diameter was a lot larger but I used a rubber adapter to fit that at the end of the copper tube. After the valve, I routed a hose into a canister that is mounted inside my (repro) toolbox.

    Last modified: 02 Dec 2017 2:55 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
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